Den Sake Brewery’s small-batch bottles mix Japanese tradition and California terroir squib

When I ask Yoshihiro Sako of Den Sake Brewery whether his first love was wine or sake, he answers slowly, as if it were a trick question. “Sake.” Then, with a smile: “Of course, that’s what I should say.”

It’s not a trick question, though. Sako, who is Den’s head brewer (and, apart from his business...

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